Comments on: Guide to Sig Sauer pistol inspection

By: Advice on Sig P229 - PNW Guns

Advice on Sig P229 - PNW Guns — Sun, 22 Jan 2012 21:36:29 +0000

[...] Gray's Guide: Guide to Sig Sauer pistol inspection : Grayguns by Bruce Gray Anytime I look at a used Sig, I go through his info and make sure I know what I'm [...]

By: Going rate for sig P239?

Going rate for sig P239? — Wed, 26 Oct 2011 02:45:34 +0000

[...] http://www.topgunsupply.com/sig-saue…da-sa-srt.html And here is a guide to inspecting used Sigs: http://grayguns.com/guide-to-sig-sau…ol-inspection/ And a lubrication guide, I highly recommend grease, and following this application guide: [...]

By: GREG DEXTER

GREG DEXTER — Sat, 01 Oct 2011 10:05:50 +0000

GREAT TIPS. THANKS. I WILL BE LOOKING AT A USED P228 TWO TONE SHORTLY, AND THESE TIPS WILL HELP ME IN EVALUATING THE PISTOL’S CONDITION.

By: Dave Wright

Dave Wright — Thu, 21 Jan 2010 12:58:34 +0000

Nice guide as to wear. Metal finishing is my business, and I never looked at my guns in that light. Only question is why not re-anodize the “worn through” frame?

Thanks!

By: Mark

Mark — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 04:38:25 +0000

A part of the guide I would like to see is estimated round counts for each phase. We have this for “state 3″ but not the rest.

Also, can the frame be re-anodized? If so, when would be the proper point to do so. Is it worth the cost to do so? Should I buy a new frame at some point or simply go for a whole new fire arm?

And I agree with the above, that having a similar guide for steel frames would be fantastic.

Thank you for your time.

By: Dean

Dean — Sun, 13 Sep 2009 03:30:14 +0000

Nice write-up! I too would also like to know how to appraise this on different finishes, like Nickel.

Pictures of the different stages of wear on the frame rails (as well as the disconnector tab, front chamber section, and other points of wear) would be appreciated.

Also nice would be repair/service estimates of guns at common stages of wear, and what can be done to make things safe/serviceable in regards to replacing different parts. Then link to parts you offer or recommend along with the picture examples of different stages.

- New (especially crucial when a gun is listed as “LNIB”)
- Just after 200 rounds
- Properly broken-in and maintained after several thousand rounds.
- Not properly lubed/maintained, but still serviceable (needs a part or two, not FUBAR)
- Pretty worn (not a good or high dollar purchase, needs part(s), almost FUBAR)
- Bad/dangerous/unsafe purchase

Thank you!

By: Greg

Greg — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 10:20:59 +0000

A few good pictures of the progressive stages of wear would turn this good article into a great one.

By: Nathan

Nathan — Tue, 11 Aug 2009 16:31:04 +0000

Fantastic guide, only question is how would you evaluate a stainless steel frame?

By: K McKnight

K McKnight — Mon, 03 Aug 2009 16:51:05 +0000

A really neat follow-on to this would be something like 10-8′s article on the 1911 entitled “Reliability, Round Counts and Longevity in 1911s” except done for the P220. http://www.10-8performance.com/id32.html Granted most people never seem to get to truly high round counts, but a lot of people worry about it. SigFourm (Sigfreund) published some maintenance intervals based on the armorer’s course, but then Todd Green on another forum commented the P220 is good for 10k rounds before failures. I would venture to guess your experience is between the two and would be very informative. Thanks,
-Keith